Fragrant Hills Park

The Chinese name is Xiangshan — incense hills, not perfume. The summit is Incense-Burner Peak: two rocks that read as bronze censers, set in a Jin-dynasty hunting ground Qianlong later rebuilt as Jingyi Garden, then sacked twice by foreign armies. The famous autumn fire is not maple; it is smoke trees, a hillside of Cotinus that turns as if the incense finally caught.